Which Style?
1. Stubble
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| David Beckham |
Who It Suits
The most effective method to Maintain
Expert Tip
“To keep stubble and skin soft and conditioned (also to reduce the risk of inflicting ‘pash rash’ on a partner when kissing) ensure you start with a clean surface,” says Sam Norsworthy, store manager at Ruffians barbers in London’s Marylebone.
“Exfoliate dead skin away with a facial scrub, leaving the skin underneath fresh and ready to absorb a daily moisturiser designed to soften skin and condition hair.”
2. The Goatee
Short on effort, big on style, the goatee has long been the facial hair choice for rockstars, intellectuals and those with a wayward, rebellious streak.
Essentially, this refers to any style featuring hair above the lip and on the chin only, sometimes connected to create a frame for the mouth. In short, it’s the artistic, slightly villainous brother of the beard.
Who It Suits
Expert Tip
“Take your time, you can always take more off,” says Norsworthy. “Shape your goatee when bone dry — hair expands and relaxes when wet, contracting to its original length when dry.
“If you shape it when wet and you may find you’ve cut too much off.”
3. The Beardstache
Falling somewhere between stubble and a full beard, the beardstache is a hybrid where the moustache is kept longer and fuller than the surrounding hair.
It’s a polarising style that has been called everything from the hot new thing to the facial hair equivalent of a mullet, but when done right it oozes masculinity.
Those who have experimented with the style include everyone from designer Patrick Grant to actor Jamie Dornan and model-turned-DJ Chris Camplin.
Like the standalone ’stache, there’s something inescapably 1970s porno about the style, but it’s fun, shows you have an experimental side, and there’s a practical aspect too since it’s the perfect lightweight alternative to a full beard come summer.
Who It Suits
In the same way it straddles two facial hair styles, the beardstache looks just as good on a lumberjack as a suited city slicker, instantly adding a hyper-masculine ruggedness to any face.
It works well on most face shapes but requires thick facial hair and looks best on guys with a wider philtrum (the stretch of skin between the top lip and nose) and a prominent chin due to it drawing attention higher up the face.
How To Maintain
Maintaining a beardstache is like looking after two very different kids — just adjust your maintenance strategy to accommodate both.
- The look can be created from the starting point of a full beard or by simply allowing the stubble around your upper lip to grow longer from scratch.
- Use a beard trimmer to keep the hair around the chin and cheeks at an extended stubble length while growing the moustache so that the sides finish just lower than the bottom lip, but not beyond the jawline, otherwise you’ll look like Yosemite Sam.
- Keep the ‘stache part tangle-free with the help of a decent moustache comb and shape with a touch of moustache wax, distributing the wax evenly with the comb.
Expert Tip
“Beardstaches tend to look better when the difference between the two parts isn’t too great,” says Norsworthy.
“If you go too short with your stubble you can run the risk of starting back at square one. Use the guard on your clippers to guide you, usually a difference of just two settings is a good starting point.”
4. The Short Beard
A dialed-down, neater and altogether less lumberjacky version of the full beard, the short beard is a more versatile, understated and office-friendly alternative — perfect if you’re fending off a boss who’s phobic of facial hair.
Guys like Ryan Reynolds, Jon Hamm and George Clooney have all used this style to add gravitas and insulation to their faces in recent years (and look what it’s done for them).
The ideal hirsute middle ground — kept tidy, but not overly preened — a short beard sits just as comfortably alongside a suit during the nine-to-five as it does down the pub at the weekend (where everyone will definitely have #BeardEnvy).
Who It Suits
A neatly trimmed beard will suit most face shapes, though you may need to tailor the angles to emphasise your best features and downplay your worst.
If you’ve a round face, for example, you might want to reduce the length at the sides slightly to elongate the face. Similarly, leaving the sides slightly longer can help add width to a thin, narrow face. Blessed with a double chin? Try taking the beard down all the way to the Adam’s Apple to disguise it.
If in doubt, ask a barber to tend to your beard with your next trim, then keep up the shape at home.
How To Maintain
Unlike the big, bushy hipster beard, the short style is minimal and precise. With neatness key, a decent beard trimmer is essential. A wet razor will come in handy, too.
- Allow the beard to grow until around 1-2cm, keeping hair neat with the help of a beard trimmer. Opt for one with an edging blade or built-in laser guide for pinpoint accuracy. Always trim just outside the line of your beard — that will leave you room to tidy it up properly with a razor.
- Use a wet razor to remove any stray hairs on the cheeks and to keep the lower neck area smooth.
- Instead of ending the beard exactly on the jawline (which can be unflattering, especially for guys with a couple of surplus chins), remove it just after the natural line of the jaw, or adjust the length of your trimmer by small increments as you work down towards the Adam’s Apple for a graduated effect.
- To keep your beard looking and feeling its best, apply a good beard oil and distribute throughout your beard with a natural bristle brush.
Expert Tip
“If you’re bald or are sporting a short military crop, prevent the jarring ‘beard line’ towards the top of the ears by tapering the cutting length to give a more gradual transition,” says Norsworthy.
“Also continue this on the underside through the neck – this will create a stronger jawline and keep you looking smart at work.”
5. Full Beard
Growing a full beard is a rite of passage up there with learning to drive, drinking your first pint (not at the same time, mind) and buying your first ‘grown-up’ watch.
But like skiing, losing weight or shooting hoops, it’s one of those things that’s decidedly harder than it looks. The fuller the beard, the more maintenance it requires and the more problems you’re likely to encounter.
Take time to look after it, though, and you’ll always have something to stroke when the dog’s not around.
Who It Suits
Of all the beard styles, the full beard is the hardest to rock, partly because it’s such a statement. Guys with oval faces will have no problem making it work, but if you’ve any other face shape, you may need some creative trimming to ensure it flatters.
Slim, angular jaws and narrow faces can be softened and rounded out by keeping the sides slightly longer, while round faces can be elongated by growing the hair at the chin longer and keeping the sides shorter. You can also make a rounder face look thinner by growing the hair on the front of your face slightly longer than the stuff around the sides. Think of this crafty contouring as whisker magic.
How To Maintain
More than any other beard style, you get out what you put in with a fuller growth. Society finally accepts this shape as something that’s acceptable for more than just shopping mall Santas, so don’t ruin it for the rest of us by heading out with a wiry, matted mess hanging off your face.
- Grow your beard to your own personal peak beard length (you’ll know when you’ve hit it).
- Use a beard trimmer on a long setting to maintain the length, combing through with a beard brush first, and always trim when dry.
- Be patient if your beard appears patchy at first. Gaps often fill in naturally as hair grows to cover them.
- Keep your beard glossy and conditioned with the help of a beard oil. Since facial hair draws up moisture, the skin itself beneath can become particularly dry and flaky (hence the dreaded beard dandruff) so use your fingers to ensure the oil gets right beneath the hair, too.
- Use a beard comb or brush daily to minimise the risk of tangles and evenly distribute your beard oil.
- To increase the bushiness, try blow-drying your beard using a hair dryer on a cool setting. Take a small comb or beard brush and gently tease out and downwards as you dry.
- Have your beard professionally shaped by a barber every once in a while to give it a shape you can follow at home.

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